Sienna Maker Jacket By Closet Core Patterns

I’m super excited to share this make with you and I have to say this has exceeded expectations!

Firstly, let’s touch on this beautiful Atelier Brunette fabric that I was so pleased to get my hands on. THANK YOU MINERVA!
It’s from the newly released Nomad Collection. To be honest, I wasn’t entirely sure what gabardine was before I started this project. I now know it’s a twill weave, which means it’s woven on the diagonal. I would say it’s similar to a heavy denim, but this fabric has a lovely slightly brushed soft texture. It would make exquisite Persephone or Dawn jeans. There is a small selection of colours available and the wonderful thing with Atelier Brunette fabric is the whole range compliment each other – so you can easily mix and match. This Forest green is such a beautiful dark shade of forest green, it almost has a ever so slight teal tint to it. I also picked out some contrasting bias binding from Atelier Brunette for finishing the inside seams and lined the pockets with some Atelier Brunette Dune fabric, leftover from a dress. It gives me so much pleasure creating pretty insides – even if it’s only me that sees it.

Now let’s get to the pattern. My wardrobe has been in need of cropped utility jacket for sometime. So when I ordered this fabric I already had the Sienna Maker Jacket pattern by Closet Core in mind. As I patiently waited for the fabric to arrive from the other side of the world, I started getting nervous that the fabric would be too heavy for it. But I couldn’t move my thoughts from this pattern, so I decided to go for it. Although this fabric is heavy, with some good pressing and grading of seams I think it works really well with this pattern. I did a quick toile before cutting into my precious fabric. I went with my bust measurement at a size 2 and decided I didn’t need to grade out for my slightly bigger waist and hips as there is enough ease. Also I think I’ve finally figured out my perfect fit adjustment for my shoulders and altered the pattern with a 1.5 cm forward shoulder and sloping shoulder adjustment. I decided to remove the back button vent as thought it may add too much bulk. I recommend being very precise with the pattern markings, particularly the little circles on the lapel and collar. They are critical for on point collar construction. I’ve started using tailors tacks as I hate it when chalk markings disappear during construction. They really are worth the extra effort of a few hand stitches.

The final touches were picking some buttons out, which I spent a ridiculous amount of time researching before committing to some dark tortoise shell ones from my collection. I thoroughly enjoyed the whole process of making this jacket and the instructions were easy to understand. I recommend following the sewalong on the Closet Core website to confirm you’re on the right track.

I love the details of this pattern; the cute pockets on the arm and the perfect proportions of the lapel. I’m already planning a long denim version.